Block Fill

[jmwj03]

Forgive me if I have posted this in the wrong forum. I read through some other posts, and this seemed the most logical place. I recently read the following on another website:

"Refer to benefits of hard blocking as explained by David Vizard at www.gofastnews.com."

I have searched all the forums and cannot find anything of the sort. Can someone offer up some advice or post a link where this has been talked about? Thanks in advance!

[rookie]

You've come to the right place.

What info are you looking for about block fill?

[jmwj03]

Well, First off, not really opinions on whether I should or shouldn't. While I would welcome them, most of the answers Ive gotten elsewhere are just do/do not with no mention why. So, I am a little jaded at this point.

Here is what I have: GM Perf Parts 454 block with just .006 wear. The block has been sonic checked, and the machinist says Ive got plenty of meat where it counts. Because of this i do not really want to bore the block, just go back with standard sizes pistons.

This motor will be strip use only in an '85 S-10. I plan a 4.25 stroke forged crank, 6.385 forged rod, 12:1 compression (approx) billet main caps, all studded. Heads will eventually be aluminum, but for now are 781 castings. Eventually will be a twin carb intake. There will be a plate system of 150hp nitrous to start, with a pro race fogger coming in progrssively down track. I do not plan more than 300 on the fogger...but you know how that goes.

My main question is whether I am really going to have to hone the block with torque plates after the fill. My plan was to fill the block with the mains torqued, and before it sets, bolt the heads on and torque. Then let it set for 24 hours, do the other side, and let it cure for a month.

I am assembling all myself (because i want to and can) but dont want to spend the money on machine work. I realize with a stock block, a lot of folks will say i am putting too much at it, but that's what I'm doing. I may also run a girdle on the mains. My main goal is to make a bullet proof bottom end so I can have some fun on weekends.

Thanks!

[Ol' CW]

I have been told that if you're not boring the block, there really isn't enough difference to take advantage of torque plates

IDK how true this is, but I do know the best thing to do is go ahead and bore it and get it torque plate honed. You would want to fill the block after cleaning and before boring.

I have decided I am going to short fill my next one, or if I go alky I'm gonna tall fill.

[rookie]

With the cubic inches and nitrous your running I would recommend filling the block, if you are not willing to spend the money on machine work then the way you are going about it is probably the safest.

Although my machinist is not big on torque plates or honing after concrete, He does my engines that way because I request it.

You said “My main goal is to make a bullet proof bottom end so I can have some fun on weekends.”

My question would be what’s another $250.00 insurance policy (or what ever your shop would charge) by going ahead and honing it, on a $10,000.00 engine to make it bullet proof you can’t take short cuts, keep in mind, ring seal can be good for 25 horse on an engine of that size. Oil leaking past the rings on a nitrous engine is a bad thing.

[jmwj03]

I was planning on tall filling as well, i was just hoping i could have them do a quick touch up hone without having to bore. One person told me that if I fill the block, I HAVE to bore it. That's what I am trying to avoid. A dozen other people just said "dont waste your time." When I asked why, they said too much weight and trouble.

[jmwj03]

Originally Posted by rookie

With the cubic inches and nitrous your running I would recommend filling the block, if you are not willing to spend the money on machine work then the way you are going about it is probably the safest.

Although my machinist is not big on torque plates or honing after concrete, He does my engines that way because I request it.

You said “My main goal is to make a bullet proof bottom end so I can have some fun on weekends.”

My question would be what’s another $250.00 insurance policy (or what ever your shop would charge) by going ahead and honing it, on a $10,000.00 engine to make it bullet proof you can’t take short cuts, keep in mind, ring seal can be good for 25 horse on an engine of that size. Oil leaking past the rings on a nitrous engine is a bad thing.

Part of the money issue is that I have a perfectly good block with no wear, so I hate spending the money on something that really seems unnessary (wear only.) I picked up the block for under $100, so I am thinking long term with rebuilds and freshen ups. If I can keep it from grenading, then I get more out of it. Does that make sense? I have no problem with a hone...the bore is what is my mental road block.

[rookie]

On a nitrous engine you will need a bigger piston to cylinder wall clearance so boring it is probably not needed, but a good torque plate hone will make the cylinder walls straight and smooth and the engine will have its best chance of a long life.

[rookie]

With the stroke and nitrous you are wanting to run I would use block fill for sure, it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

[jmwj03]

Thanks guys.

Rookie, that was exactly my logic. I wanted it, and everyone tried to talk me out of it "just because."

As you said, "With the stroke and nitrous you are wanting to run I would use block fill for sure, it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. "

I knew and agreed with the looser ring gap, so I thought I would be fine. Nice to see someone thinks the same why I did. It just confirms in my mind that there's more than one way to go about this.

Now, I would still like to see what David had to say, as it was listed on another site.

Time to go evacuate for Hurricane Gustav, so it wont be my priority for a few days anyway.