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With the p-v clearances you have you can move the cam around a lil' bit. Advancing the cam will tighten up the exhaust and loosen up the intake clearances. This should help you on the bottom end but trim off your top end. Retarding it will tighten up the intake and loosen up the exhaust. This should help you on the top end. If you tighten up the LCA you will also tighten up those clearances. So if you opt for that make sure your cam manufacturer knows those numbers along with all your cam specs. Where are you installing the cam at?
If you're wanting to bump the compression a bit. I'd deck the heads around .014"-.015". This will knock 2 ccs out of the cumbustion chamber. But this will also knock that much out of your p-v clearance.
Could mark up your piston dome with a marker and dummy up the rotating assembly. Get the p-v at it's closest. From there you can take your valve and push it down to make contact on your piston and turn it a few times. You may be hitting somewhere that can be shave a bit in order to free up some clearance . If that happens then you can deck more. But...I wouldn't deck if you choose to run that cam. Might take .007 off just to true things up. I run a minum of .045" on the intakes and .095" on the exhaust. With .080" and .130" you have some room to move around.
The key here is to move your whole power band up 700 RPM and increase that multiplier. What rpm was your torque peak at and what was it?
Make sure you freshen up your valve job while you have things apart.
What Block are you running? Stock blocks won't make as much power as a good after market one will. How much vacuum are you running at an idle and in the RPMs. Gas porting might help you some with that. I can help you with that if you want.
How much access to a dyno do you have?
I have a ton more questions but this thing is long enough.
would be more then happy to help if you want/if I can.
Don
Ace Rod Shop
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